theViatrix

The calendar may say that summer is beginning to wind down, but the thermometer tells me it’s still in full swing. And in Madrid that means calor. With daily temps in the mid-30s (that’s the mid-90s for you Fahrenheiters), finding ways to beat the heat is practically a matter of survival.

I’ve never been much for the municipal pools, even though, true to European form, they’re much more entertaining here than they are at home (hello, topless everyone!). Apart from the germ factor, in my opinion, you’re still too close to the asphalt radiation that makes the city so unbearable at times. No, for my respite from the heat, I look up—to Madrid’s roof terraces. There are plenty to choose from, with ambiances and price points to suit almost everyone. Here are my top picks. [...]

The smoking ban has come into effect… and I love it!

Welcome to the glory that is Spain Without Smoke! Welcome, Spain, to the 21st century!

The ban took effect on the 2nd and this evening I tested it out at a few places around the barrio. In some bars I could actually see the person I was talking to; in some it was strange not to see cigarettes in people’s hands. And some restaurants are now offering their terraces (where, unfortunately, you can still smoke) year-round. Which would be nice if they weren’t cold and smokey.

It’s pretty controversial since a lot of people smoke and a lot of non-smokers are just used to it, but I’m confident that soon everyone will be thrilled with the new arrangement. Hooray for clear air!

Yesterday was Iñigo’s birthday, so in true Spanish fashion, he invited me out for dinner. He really is the ideal boyfriend, because he takes me out to dinner for his birthday, Spanish-style, and he also takes me out for my birthday, American-style. Best of both worlds!

This year he wanted something international and he wanted to try something new. We ended up deciding on Collage, a Scandinavian restaurant that had gotten some good reviews online. [...]