theViatrix

This week I’ve written a post on Iberian hot chocolate over at my dear friend Erin’s site, La Tortuga Viajera. Make sure to head over there to learn how to tell your suís from your chocolat mousseux, as well as just how crazy Madrileños went for chocolate back in the day. And don’t forget to check out Erin’s fun entries on everything from traveling in Istanbul to obsessing over Spanish grandpas.

But getting back to the sweet stuff, here are my favorite places to sip hot chocolate around Iberia. [...]

Last week, while browsing my neighborhood’s online micro-newspaper, Somos Malasaña, I noticed a night-time tour of the neighborhood under “upcoming events.” I’ve seen these guys around the barrio many times, and always thought “I want to do that!” So I jumped at the chance. Led by Carpetania Madrid, a group of historians, art experts, and storytellers, “From Maravillas to Malasaña: Philip II to botellón” is just one of many fascinating routes on offer. [...]

The calendar may say that summer is beginning to wind down, but the thermometer tells me it’s still in full swing. And in Madrid that means calor. With daily temps in the mid-30s (that’s the mid-90s for you Fahrenheiters), finding ways to beat the heat is practically a matter of survival.

I’ve never been much for the municipal pools, even though, true to European form, they’re much more entertaining here than they are at home (hello, topless everyone!). Apart from the germ factor, in my opinion, you’re still too close to the asphalt radiation that makes the city so unbearable at times. No, for my respite from the heat, I look up—to Madrid’s roof terraces. There are plenty to choose from, with ambiances and price points to suit almost everyone. Here are my top picks. [...]

Tortilla española is a Spanish staple. Translated as a “Spanish omelet,” but closer to a potato frittata, you can find it in almost any bar anywhere in the country. The great thing about tortilla is that it’s so simple that it’s almost always edible. It’s hard to mess it up. Nevertheless, there’s a huge difference between a merely edible tortilla and the kind of mouth-watering masterpiece that people seek out. In Spanish we say, “No tienen nada que ver”—they have nothing to do with each other. [...]

The smoking ban has come into effect… and I love it!

Welcome to the glory that is Spain Without Smoke! Welcome, Spain, to the 21st century!

The ban took effect on the 2nd and this evening I tested it out at a few places around the barrio. In some bars I could actually see the person I was talking to; in some it was strange not to see cigarettes in people’s hands. And some restaurants are now offering their terraces (where, unfortunately, you can still smoke) year-round. Which would be nice if they weren’t cold and smokey.

It’s pretty controversial since a lot of people smoke and a lot of non-smokers are just used to it, but I’m confident that soon everyone will be thrilled with the new arrangement. Hooray for clear air!

Cured fish roe at Madrid’s La Venencia. [...]